Cindarella's Closet

A few weeks ago we did a benefit for high school girls who needed affordable dresses for prom. These great group of guys were volunteering from the University of Scranton Crew Team. We had a lot of fun helping the girls and passing out horederves. A gentle reminder: just because it is a tuxedo does not make it classy. Anyhow we used bright colors and daring combinations which kid use for prom; it should be the last soiree where outfits like these should be seen.

What to Look for in Trousers

So what exactly should we be looking for in a trouser? My first requisite is side adjusters in lieu of belt loops. The picture on the left side shows a simple way to pull your waist to the proper tension. The image on the right has a little more complex zipper system that pulls an elastic insert and holds the tension a bit better. I feel that a belt clutters up the waist of the man so if you have the options either opt for the adjusters or start wearing suspenders. I need not remind the gentleman of the inexpence of having your tailor sew in a few suspender buttons.

Although pleats are not required on trousers if you are to have them they should always go forward. This thins the thigh and pulls the material on the leg closer to the intended spot. Tailors and designers in Italy would disagree but I assure you the difference is remarkable. Pleats should be two or four and start as high up the garment as possible. Flat front trousers are certainly acceptable on all suits and they can flatter a slim man or mess a large one alike.

As far as cuffs on the hem of the trouser I personally do not like them especially with pattern in the cloth but it is up to the personal taste of the customer. There are many things your tailor can do avoidably to trousers and one can take advantage of personal style by pegging the bulk of the leg, adjusting the rise of the zipper, or flaring the bottom for men who are subconscious of their large feet.

Get Your Lapels Rolled!

For those out there who get suits pressed or cleaned you need to know about the lapel roller. This pressing devise rolls the lapel rather than flat pressing it. Ask your cleaner if they have this and insist that they do so to your garment. The company who presses my suits have the roller but, as you see on the left, they flat press unless I remind them with various notes. This particular suit made by Henry Rose has a great deal of canvasing and it creates a great roll when pressed properly.

Norton and Sons

I received this suit a few months ago and it has been at my tailor's for the last few weeks. I finally get to wear it. It is a Norton and Sons bespoke three button notched lapel with three cuff buttons (two functioning) and is a heavily constructed jacket. The pants have belt loops and two inward pleats - It fits great!

Walter Grant Norton opened a tailor shop in 1821 and it remained in the family unit Grant Norton left in 1963. Norton has a tradition of rugged outerwear thus it is no surprise that Norton and Son clothes were present when Lord Carnarvon opened Tutankhamon's tomb, when Stanly met Livingston, and when the Marquis de Vogue undertook his 'Voyage en Syrie st en Palestine.' Other notables include Baron von Richtofen and Chuck Yeager (pilots must fancy Norton). From Carey Grant, Sinatra, and Alfred Hitchcock, Norton and Sons have been clothing generations of gentlemen. I'm not sure who cut this particular pattern but head cutter John Kent holds a royal warrant for H.M.S. the Duke of Edinburgh.

The Shawl Lapel

We talk a lot about the peaked and notched lapel but it seems rarer these days to see a shawl lapel. These are mainly reserved for formal wear but even in that they are a dying breed. I'm in this picture with acclaimed pianist Christopher Johnson after one of his concerts. Take note of his shawl lapel but try to ignore my casual look - it was an informal gathering but, I know, there is no excuse for jeans. The shirt is a cool linen 'preacher collar' from the Texas designer Stubs Davis. The stud buttons and cufflinks are pewter.